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Author Topic: What is the ideal speed for shooting broadheads?  (Read 417 times)
blucrikmuley
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« Reply #15 on: February 27, 2010, 03:00:46 pm »


The epek worked.... I think  

after reading your story--- imo-- it didn't.
« Last Edit: February 27, 2010, 03:05:37 pm by blucrikmuley » Logged

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« Reply #16 on: February 27, 2010, 03:14:31 pm »

I am beginning to think so also.  However, in answer to your question.  They are really expensive and had I not won the first package, I would not have bought a 2nd package.  The O ring gets cold and stiff making the broadhead hard to open.  I had to hold it in my hand and warm it up every morning.  It may have opened on impact, but I questioned if it would or not.  On a warm day, you'd have no problem for sure.  I did not like the aluminum tip.  It was not durable enough .  Of course, any tip dulls upon impact, but not to the degree this one did.  Also, I lost a blade.  I suppose, for some people... they work well... but I am giving mine to my son.  He wants to try them. 
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« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2010, 03:16:06 pm »

the way the Epek's work (See 9by10 I spelled it right)  I wonder if after the arrow going through the shoot through netting.  Would that deploy the blades??  Or do they require a little more of a wall to deploy blades??
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« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2010, 03:19:40 pm »

I am beginning to think so also.  However, in answer to your question.  They are really expensive and had I not won the first package, I would not have bought a 2nd package.  The O ring gets cold and stiff making the broadhead hard to open.  I had to hold it in my hand and warm it up every morning.  It may have opened on impact, but I questioned if it would or not.  On a warm day, you'd have no problem for sure.  I did not like the aluminum tip.  It was not durable enough .  Of course, any tip dulls upon impact, but not to the degree this one did.  Also, I lost a blade.  I suppose, for some people... they work well... but I am giving mine to my son.  He wants to try them. 
Based off of this report.  It sounds like they didn't do you any favors at all.  Thanks for the good info!!!
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2010, 03:27:11 pm »

I wasn't shooting through the netting.  It blocks too much of my vision, so I don't use it. 

I have seen some pretty gruesom wounds that have been caused by these broadheads.  I am not sure I would base a bad opinion off my experience.  The hair was light colored and the bottom end of a loper is dark brown, so I know I didn't skim its underside.  The upper half and neck are light, and I wondered if I hit it forward in the brisket.  Still, other than the sound of the hit and the sight of the puff of hair flying in the air, you would not have known it was hit.  Strange......
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« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2010, 03:27:11 pm »

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« Reply #20 on: February 27, 2010, 03:29:11 pm »

Strange and unfortunate.  Where was the hunt at?  Was it local or out of state?  Tags for Antelope aren't always the cheapest.
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« Reply #21 on: February 27, 2010, 07:51:25 pm »

the way the Epek's work (See 9by10 I spelled it right)  I wonder if after the arrow going through the shoot through netting.  Would that deploy the blades??  Or do they require a little more of a wall to deploy blades??


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« Reply #22 on: March 01, 2010, 11:27:59 am »

 Cheesy LOL. 

That last question I posted about EPEK broadheads.  that is actually a good question,

Has anyone actually shot they "through" shoot-through-netting?  was it enough to deploy the blades? or does the o-ring hold the blades back better than that?
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« Reply #23 on: March 12, 2010, 10:33:40 pm »

I have still been a bit curious about this topic.  I recently changed the limbs on my bow back to 70 lbs.  I wanted to really beef up the KE and get some strong speed out of my bow and a heavy arrow But I noticed my groups out to 50-60 yards were larger than before.  Granted the faster it is the tougher it is to shoot. 

I called up a few of my friends who work for Easton.  I posed the same question.  They had subtle differences in what worked well for them.  but one thing stood the same.  High speed like 290+ mechanicals were easier to get tuned.  Most commonly the favorite speed was in the 270-285 range.  The reason why was the faster the arrow, and when you want a fixed blade head or something not smooth like a field point.  The head will plane.  Causing the broadhead to steer the arrow rather than your vanes.  Making it more difficult to avoid a corkscrew affect.  They also spoke how a heavier arrow will give more control to your vanes and not the point.
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« Reply #24 on: March 13, 2010, 08:15:39 am »

Unfair,
When doing the yearly trade off between broadheads and field tips, do you start over and paper tune all over again? What is your normal procedure?
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« Reply #25 on: March 13, 2010, 09:34:56 am »

No I don't paper tune, the shaft and the rest are already tuned.  What I use depending on the arrow.  If it has an insert that pokes outside, I will start shooting and watching flight.  If they are Axis shafts there is a tool by G5 called an ASD tool (arrow squaring device)  it takes the end of the shaft and puts a perfect flat end on it.  Which allows your broadheads to spin perfectly, and gives it perfect alignment for better spin, flight, and penetration.
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« Reply #26 on: March 13, 2010, 10:03:53 am »

I have still been a bit curious about this topic.  I recently changed the limbs on my bow back to 70 lbs.  I wanted to really beef up the KE and get some strong speed out of my bow and a heavy arrow But I noticed my groups out to 50-60 yards were larger than before.  Granted the faster it is the tougher it is to shoot. 

I called up a few of my friends who work for Easton.  I posed the same question.  They had subtle differences in what worked well for them.  but one thing stood the same.  High speed like 290+ mechanicals were easier to get tuned.  Most commonly the favorite speed was in the 270-285 range.  The reason why was the faster the arrow, and when you want a fixed blade head or something not smooth like a field point.  The head will plane.  Causing the broadhead to steer the arrow rather than your vanes.  Making it more difficult to avoid a corkscrew affect.  They also spoke how a heavier arrow will give more control to your vanes and not the point.

so if i'm reading this right you are saying that fixed blades are more accurate at slower speeds (270-). and that they will plane more at higher speeds. so if you are shooting 270 or 280+ you are better off shooting a mechanical.

also it seems to me that mechanicals would deploy better at higher speeds with higher KE pushing them into the animal. sounds like slow= fixed and fast= mechanical.  what do you think?
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« Reply #27 on: March 14, 2010, 12:43:17 pm »

One guy i spoke with, when asked the question he is a 4 blade fixed guy all the way. He answered back instantly 280 fps as his speed of choice.  He said getting much faster than that he does get planing issues with his heads.  But he shoots a Flex Fletch 4" vane and a MONSTER helical!!  He will take his Bitzenburger and right helical clamp and spin it as hard as he can.  It looks more like a prop on the back of his arrow but he gets good flight and usually a nice Wasatch Muley each year, and a Wyoming buck, and Idaho buck.  So good guy to take advice from. 

One thought is if you have a vane of choice...  For example.. blazers, Max Hunters, or 4"  How you fletch them and what head you use, are all contributary.  My experience.  Mechanical heads...  No big deal to spin your fletches or not.  Fixed...  Spin them as hard as you can.  But from everyone I spoke with said that 280-270 seems to be the happy place. 

It seems the reason WHY is because they have the option of shooting 300 fps.  but for the sake of accuracy and penetration.  They would rather throw a heavier arrow shoot more accurately,  Than shoot flat. 
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« Reply #28 on: July 16, 2010, 10:09:06 pm »

Correction.  I was shooting a Sonic.  There made by American Broadhead company. 
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