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[Unfair Advantage]

I have actually have been shooting one for some time.  I really like it.  I shot my first critter off of it.  Talking to Wilkey he recommends and shoots them on EVERYTHING.  A overdraw witha  blade for his target setups and a overdraw with a dropaway on his hunting setups.  I shot one on my alphamax for about a year.  I took it off to try and lighten it up.  But i really liked it.  Hoyt still sells overdraws with the Hoyt Dropaway.  It would be worth to look into.  i am sure one of the local proshops may even carry one. 

[bow_dude]

Hey Blue muly,

Put that new Mathews dropaway on your LD and you will have an overdraw with a drop away.  Most after market rests are in sorts an overdraw... about 1 inch. 

[blucrikmuley]

i don't think i would mess with what a have for 1 inch.  when i think overdraw i think of the old bolt on shelves with rests moved back 3"+ and i really don't want to go back to being a speed freak. been there, done that

[Unfair Advantage]

1" would seem hardly worth it.  My buddy likes the overdraw, because he says it helps riser torque especially for long distance shooting.  Where another seems to think that it really has no major advantage.  But I keep seeing more and more people shooting them.  I shot one but never changed my arrow lengths because of it.  I would much rather spine correctly, and let the arrow do its job.

[blucrikmuley]

why shoot an overdraw but not cut arrows down? isn't about shooting a shorter and lighter arrow? maybe i missed something here. are there any BIG advantages to just bolting one on?

[Unfair Advantage]

My buddy brought it up as it helped prevent riser torque.  He showed me by taking his bow with a rest w/o an overdraw. physically torqued the handle to the left and shot.  the arrow hit about 3" left.  than did the same torquing to the right...  3" right.  Than installed an Overdraw.  Torqued the bow the same as he did before.  But the result was 2 X's. 
 

By moving the contact point further back.  When the arrow rest and contact point was at center it pushed the arrow the direction of the torque.  by moving it back with the overdraw.  It pushed the arrow the opposite direction of the torque and held the arrow on target.  Hopefully this makes sense. 

He said there is two ways to deal with torque. 
1) learn not to torque your riser.
2) Use an overdraw, and still try not to torque your riser.  the overdraw seems to work as an insurance card.  don't worry about your equiptment.  it can only do what you tell it to.

Words of Wisdom for any aspiring archer.

[Unfair Advantage]

Which speed bows come to mind when you think about buying one, and why???

[DXT Freak]

I think the only reason I'd get a speed bow is so the bow could do more work for me. Set it at a lower poundage and your still shooting 300+. But the release is so violent on some of these bows you have to learn to shoot them. Are there any speed bows that are smoother upon takeoff?

[blucrikmuley]

in my opinion PSE reinvented the speed bow a couple of years ago with the X-force. everyone else is just playing catch up.

[Unfair Advantage]

The biggest complaint I keep hearing about PSE's speed bow is that it so rough to shoot.  Plus the limbs don't keep up.  Now I may be wrong and there may be some X-forces out there that have ran the paces.  but i wonder How well they hold up and how true their speeds are compared to IBO

[Unfair Advantage]

Trying to keep this thread going...  It seems as though not to many other companies this year are persuing the speed bow any more.  With PSE not coming out with anything new this year and Matthews bowing out of that race and going with the slower Z7.  Is speed all that important any more?  In the last few tournaments (ASA, IBO) in the Senior Division Two Hoyt shooters have taken the top two places shooting AlphaBurners.  Is speed still that important.  alot of guys who have been shooting 300+ are either lowering thier poundage or looking into new bows.  Any thoughts?

[bow_dude]

I have a Mathews LD, which is shooting at a speed of 304 fps.  My Elite GT500 is shooting at a speed of 326 fps.  The LD draws nicer and is very accurate. The Elite draws harsher and is very accurate.  They are quite different from one another.  The most accurate of the two depends upon which one I shoot the most.  Currently it is the Elite.  Even though the Mathews is a nicer shooting bow, I perfer the Elite.  Not sure why unless it is just the speed thing.  I think the Mathews is a little more forgiving.  The Elite was a challenge to "master."  and perhaps that challenge is another reason why I prefer it.   

[Littlebuck]

For the last 2 years I have been shooting Bowtech commanders, a 60lb and a 70lb. The commanders are very forgiving bows with a long ATA and a long brace height. I feel very confident shooting ether one of them. This spring I picked up a 09 82nd airborne 70lb. It took a week or two to get used to shooting the 82nd but I have been very impressed with it so far. Today I went to the outdoor range up Logan canyon. It was my first time with the new bow. I use one-pin slider sights on all of my bows. I always try to set my sight at 30 yards and shoot all the targets except a few that I like to shoot at from way out. With the 82nd I felt that I shot better than I ever have with the slower commanders. Most of the targets were between 20 and 45 yards. I think the faster bow helps with the yardage compensation. Loads of deer get killed and have been killed with re-curves and long bows so speed is no replacement for hunting and archery skills. However if you can shoot a faster bow it has to help…. Just my 2 cents.

[Unfair Advantage]

I agree.  I have arrows I can get wrapped pretty hot.  I usually prefer my arrow to be around 260+ That is in all aspects but paper.  Depending on the arrow I am shooting.  Like a 540 grain FMJ I am not going to crank up my poundage just so I can throw that heavy of an arrow that fast.  I have some Flatline shafts and those things can cook!!  My bow is only around 65 lbs.  And I am shooting at 301.  There are a few tricks I've learned to cheat a few FPS out of a setup by a few minor tweaks. 

Here is a better question.  How do you guys maintain your tight groups to out around 70-80 yards?

[bow_dude]

I am happy to just hit foam at those distances.  I don't normally shoot that far except at a 3-d shoot or golf.  But... to hold on target so I get a group, I need to have a very relaxed bow hand and a very good follow thru. (pull through the shot... touch the back of my head with my trigger finger after the release.) When I do, the arrows generally hit where they are supposed to.  I also have to concentrate real hard on the target and not on the pin or the wandering of the sight pin. (no drive by's)  I think I could improve my accuracy a bit more if I would switch to a thumb release, but I like to keep working on my technique with the trigger release.